A weekend in Alsace... without driving on the motorway!

Canals, harbours, locks

Shortly after the village of Coincourt, the department of Meurthe-et-Moselle offers an extraordinary succession of locks along the Rhine-Marne Canal. Take a break at the Lagarde marina or at the Étang de Parroy, the largest pond used for fish farming in France. Another worthwhile destination less than 6 kilometres away is Moussey, specifically the ‘Bataville’ factory estate, which has been classified as a historical monument since 2014. The residential and factory complex was built in 1931 on behalf of Tomáš Bat’a, the founder of the famous shoe brand.

The first real mountain pass road

We really get going on this stretch: it is scenic, winding and almost perfectly tarmaced. But be careful: a safe driving style is particularly important here, as you can only see oncoming vehicles late in the forest. The Col du Donon at an altitude of 727 metres forms the border to Alsace and, more precisely, to the Bas-Rhin department (67). This route is a must for motorbike fans – no wonder there are so many of them!

Natzwiller and the ‘Auberge’, but not only …

After crossing the Donon Pass and passing through the village of Schirmeck, turn left onto the road to Natzwiller. A culinary highlight is the excellent sauerkraut at the Auberge Metzger (www.hotel-aubergemetzger. com). Unfortunately, Natzwiller also became famous for being the site of the only concentration camp on French soil during the Nazi era.
on French soil during the Nazi era. A place that should definitely be visited: after all, it is our duty to ensure that this dark chapter is never forgotten. In ‘KL Natzweiler – Struthof’, originally built for 2,000 prisoners, almost 7,000 people were interned in August 1944.

Heading for the wine route

Just a few more kilometres and you have reached the Wine Route. If you head towards Le Hohwald and then Andlau, you will pass through Itterswiller with its colourful houses before finally arriving at our destination ‘Blienschwiller’.

Accommodation, food and Alsatian hospitality

The warm welcome we receive from our Alsatian friends should not go unmentioned here. I have selected two establishments for you that are located opposite each other. Accommodation for motorcyclists and their bikes: the house of Jos. Straub & fils (Domaine de la Tour) in Blienschwiller, 35, route des Vins. If you ask me: one of the top addresses in the region! (www.vins-straub.fr) Not only are the guest rooms reasonably priced, but this hostel in the heart of the Alsatian vineyards also has a secure car park. I’d like to mention Marie-Anne’s breakfast: it’s everything you’d expect from good food in this region. After your arrival and as soon as it is clear that you will not be getting back on your motorbike until the next day, Jean-François or Jean-Sébastien Straub will show you the wine cellars and let you taste the fine wines of the house. For dinner, I recommend the restaurant ‘Le Pressoir de Bacchus’, 50 route des Vins in Blienschwiller (reservation: +33 3 88 92 43 01), which is opposite your accommodation. Sylvie and Gilles cook exceptionally well. Not forgetting their son Kevin, who earned his spurs at the Domaine de la Gaichel here in Luxembourg. A small, very friendly restaurant with great cuisine at reasonable prices.

Riquewihr and promising mountain passes

The wine route will inevitably lead you to the beautiful village of Riquewihr. For the return journey, I suggest a series of mountain passes. Firstly, head towards ‘Trois-Epis’ and then pass the Collet du Linge (987 m), the Col du Wettstein (880 m) and finally the Col de la Schlucht (1139 m). You then descend towards Gérardmer, which lies in the Vosges mountains. Between Turckheim and Gérardmer, the road winds for 54 kilometres – a winding route par excellence.

Return journey across the country

You pass through beautiful villages: Vézelise with its magnificent wooden market hall from the 13th century, the medieval Charmes-la-Côte, the former monastery seat of Apremont-la-Forêt and not forgetting Eix (no, not the little town in Provence with almost the same name!). Once you have reached Azannes-et-Soumazannes, you are in the Meuse department and about to return to Luxembourg – after a beautiful two-day tour in which you have travelled almost 675 km without driving a single time on the motorway.
motorway once.

Jean-Luc VANQUIN